Coven

I do elaborate things with my head. This cowl has a nice, deep hood to cover hair without crushing it. It loops around to keep everything in place, and to tuck nicely into your coat. The stitch pattern is fun to work, and attractive from both sides. This is a quick project, suitable for both the enthusiastic neophyte and the experienced knitter.

Materials:
Aran weight wool, about 475yds; I used 3 skeins of Cascade Yarns Cloud.
24" US #10.5 circular needle. 
Small amount of waste yarn for provisional cast on and holding live stitches.
Extra needles for working 3 needle bind off (I used a #8 to hold live stitches and a #13 for binding off).

Tension:
This springy lace stitch make gauge highly variable. I had about 5.5sts over 1" before blocking, and 4sts over 1" after aggressive blocking. 

You can find instructions for my favorite provisional cast on here.

Cowl:
Provisionally CO 39sts. Set up row: K3, p33, k3.
R1 (RS): P3, (k1, yo, ssk) to last 3sts, p3.
R2 (WS): K3, (p1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
Repeat R1-2 until cowl measures about 58". Do not bind off, but cut yarn. Place live stitches on a piece of waste yarn. Block severely.

When fully dry, remove provisional CO and waste yarn, so that you have two sets of live stitches. Fold cowl in half with RS facing, and join with a 3 needle bind off, keeping your bind off loose.

Hood:
Starting at seam, and with WS facing you, pick up and knit 45sts from cowl edge. Turn, p3, k42, pick up and purl 45sts from cowl edge. I picked up 3sts for every 4 rows.
Set up row (WS): K3, (p1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
R1 (RS): P3, (k1, yo, ssk) to last 3sts, p3.
R2 (WS): K3, (p1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
Repeat R1-2 until hood measures 10" from pick up.

Shape crown:
Dividing row: P3, (k1, yo, ssk) 13x, bind off 6sts, yo, ssk, (k1, yo, ssk) 12x, p3.
You will now be working back and forth over only one half of your stitches.
R1 and all following WS rows: K3, (p1, yo, p2tog) to end.
R2, 6, 10, & 14: (K1, yo, ssk) to last 3sts, p3.
R4, 8, 12, &16: BO 3sts, yo, ssk, (k1, yo, ssk) to last 3sts, p3.
R18: K27, p3. Do not bind off. Cut yarn, place live stitches on waste yarn.

Rejoin yarn at center back with WS facing, (p1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
R1 and all following RS rows: (K1, yo, ssk) to last 3sts, p3.
R2, 6, 10, & 14: BO 3sts, yo, p2tog, (p1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
R4, 8, & 12: (P1, yo, p2tog) to last 3sts, k3.
R15: P3, knit to end. Do not bind off. Cut yarn, place live stitches on waste yarn.
Block hood rigorously. When dry, place stitches on needles. Fold in half with RS facing, and join with a 3 needle bind off. Sew remaining seam shut.

Weave in ends. You can steam the seams lightly if you want them to lay nice and flat.

Froggit Friday! Sweater's Demise

Last night, I tore out my not-really-a-whisper cardigan. It's always fun when you start something like this, and realize you have no memory of what you did or any idea what the hell is going on here. I had completely forgotten that I worked the lower bands separately on smaller needles, then tacked them down. No wonder it always kind of pulled up weird in front. Crepes. Then there was a very awkward, tangled hour while I figured out how to disengage the sleeves from the band (hint: I should have started with the lower body, not the sleeves).

I was left with a handful of disheveled skeins. This morning, I cross tied them thoroughly, loosely, and let them soak in warm, soapy water for about an hour.

Inter-dimensional being expressed as bubble congeries and nameless chaos,

 or yarn bath? You decide!

I rinsed, and they had another short soak in warm, not soapy water. Then I them gave them a squeeze and hung them up to dry. I debated weighting them, as hardcore frogging purists insist, but everything seemed pretty relaxed, and I ending up deciding I didn't want to risk stretching out the yarn, especially a plant fiber/synthetic blend.

Poor bedraggled sods. They do smell quite nice, though. I have a feeling time, wear, and frogging has changed the Firefly a little. It seems fluffier. I'm curious to see if I notice a difference knitting with it. I remember it being a little stiff, though not unpleasantly so, and full of flax fibers.
I can't wait for them to dry so I can swatch!

Fat Bottom Bats

                                             Need a pocketful of bats? Of course you do.

Danger Level: Intermediate/Fiddly

Materials:
Fingering/4ply wool
US #1 double pointed needles
small amount of stuffing - I just used extra yarn scraps
something to stitch teeth - I used Neon Rays needlepoint ribbon
beads for eyes

Size:
About 1" tall x 3.5" tip to tip
Bigger yarn will make bigger bats.

Painless Provisional Cast On - Part III: The Shawlening

I love knitting triangular shawls. Well, to be fair, what I love is starting triangular shawls. There's always a point in there somewhere when the stitch count is over the moon and I wonder why I don't have a sensible hobby, like carving the Colosseum in a human tooth. And I do love wearing them, provided they are big enough to keep the chill off when skimming through the black void in the arms of my nightgaunts. I don't have many those little shawlette/bandana things; I need something practical for fleeing a haunted castle in.

Anyway.

My favorite way to start a triangular shawl is with a garter tab. Most patterns will have you begin this way, because it gives a perfectly smooth garter edge along the wingspan. Start with a provisional cast on of three stitches. With working yarn, knit an odd number of rows; in this case, I knit seven rows. Make sure you end with a right side row. What's facing you should look like this:

Not like this:

If you loose track of how many rows you have worked, remember that each ridge on the right side counts for two rows. When you've knit seven rows, turn the tab on its side. You will now pick up one stitch in each ridge. Just slip the tip of your needle through the little bumps closest to the edge.

Knit these three stitches. This will lead you down to your cast on edge.

Now, we want to get those cast on stitches live. In the picture above, you can see what looks like two and a half stitches, right under the provisional cast on. We'll turn that half stitch into a whole stitch in a minute. First, slide your free needle through the right sides of the two whole stitches:

...and under that last strand at the edge, holding the tail of your working yarn to the back:

Ready for a trick? Take a smallish crochet hook, and slip it up through the edge of the ridge immediately below your cast on. Grab the tail of your working yarn with the hook, and pull it through the ridge so that it forms a loop around your needle.

Knit these last three stitches. You now have nine stitches all together, with three for each edge and three for the center, and you are ready to work a wrong side row. Go ahead and unzip your waste yarn.

Let's work a few rows, with typical shawl increases, so you can see the what happens.
R1(WS): K3, p3, k3.
R2(RS): K3, [yo, k1] 3x, yo, k3
R3 & all following WS rows: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3.
R4:[K3, yo] twice, k1, [yo, k3] twice.
R6: K3, yo, k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, yo, k3.

Neat, isn't it? This is really all you need to start a triangular shawl. You could keep going and going in stockinette with garter borders, increasing at each edge and on either side of your center stitch, every right side row, until you reach the point of madness. Or you could throw in a stitch pattern or two, just to keep the gibbering at bay.

I hope you've enjoyed this little series!
Painless Provisional Cast On Part I
Painless Provisional Cast On Part II